And Life Goes On

Went to Soltaniyeh early this morning, with the idea of working with the restorer who had promised me that she would be working today. She was nowere to be seen when I got there. Mom came, as usual, and she sat at the information desk and gave every visitor information about the place. She was more eager than the woman who works there and did a better job, talking slowly and explaining again and again when they didn't understand. The guide herself just gives out the information without even taking a breath of air. Like a memorized verse.

I went and spoke to the tilemaster again. Took pictures of the kiln which was being unloaded with bricks (unglazed), not tiles (glazed). He gave me some good information and I took videos and photos. Then I went back and waited some more for the restorer to come. She finally showed up and was very frustrated. She said two of her workers were out and two needed to be tested for health reasons before they could start working on the restoration and that was what was holding things up. I asked her why there was money for her to work but not for the other workshops. She became very defensive and said those people are not telling the truth, they just don't want to work, the money is there, etc. She said if they office finds out that such things are being said, she would get in trouble. I didn't say anything, but her own supervisor had told me that there was no money. I decided then and there not to go back.

Our driver picked us up at 1 PM and we stopped at some very old ruins on our way back. Really nice ruins by the Mongols. This is Mongol land. There is a wall carved out of the rock and on it is a carving of a Chinese dragon. They call the ruins Dragon's Ruins. There are two of these dragons on opposite walls. Apparently, the Mongols wanted to carve a palace out of the rocks, but it never truly happened. These ruins was not in any of the guide books (Lonely Planet) and we had to go through remote villages to get to it. The landscape was very lush. There is ample water from the snow on the mountains.

Mom dropped me off at the Rakhshor Khaneh Museum where the shoemaker works and she went home. I was able to interview the master and then one of his "graduated" shagerds, or students, came by to get help with the tassels on the shoes she had made for her grandchild. I videoed the whole event. Finally, I got what I wanted....! Going back tomorrow in the morning so I may observe him at work with his current students. The shoes he makes are called Charogh.





The Ostad (master) had a poster of the Saltman on his wall. I told him it would be nice to make boots and shoes like the Saltman's. He opened a bag and pulled out a pair of leather boots he had made. "These are copies of what the last Saltman found is wearing". I guess he could see the enthusiasm in my face as I picked up the boots. He exchanged something in Turkish with the museum security guard who was watching us. I can understand quite a bit, but didn't pay attention to what they said. Then they both asked me if I wanted to see the Saltmen. "What? Here?" I asked. "Yes, the three recent discovered Saltmen are here in this museum but not open to public. Come and we'll show you, but you can't take a picture". "I wouldn't dream of taking a picture", I responded. Well, right NEXT DOOR, in a dehumidified, cool room were about 8 to 10 glass cases with one WHOLE Saltman in the biggest case and two partial Saltmen in the next biggest cases. The other cases contained tools, clothing, etc. This was so exciting, I couldn't believe it. You could see his nails, the very fine stiching in his cotton shirt, his finely stiched boots, and the knife in his belt. Zanjan is also known for knives. The Saltmen are all going to be housed in the Zolfaghari House (Nazi, Shirin, and Fariba, this house belongs to Taraneh's family, who are from Zanjan). The Zolfaghari's are a well to do, educated family who were from Zanjan and had a mansion here. It was confiscated by the government (guess which one) and now it's been turned into a museum, similar to the Ardalan house in Sanandaj. All Saltmen, including the one in Tehran Bastan Museum will be housed there for public viewing.

Okay. That's it for now. I'm going to post photos when in Tehran.